Charvel Usa Truss Rod Free When Fretting

You need a tiny bit of relief so the vibrating string doesnt rattle against the frets.

Yamaha have incorporated a small rectangular rout between the bridge single coil and the end of the neck which is filled by a plastic block which you have to unscrew to reveal the end of the truss rod under the fingerboard.

For that you also have to remove the bridge pickup from its cavity (you have to block the trem as described above and the manoeuvre the pup out by squashing the foam underneath it).

NB. The wires still remain attached to the pup - you just have to rest the pup on its side underneath the strings.

Once the pup is out you can make an adjustment to the rod, quickly pop the pup back in the cavity, unblock the trem and then check the adjustment.

If its not quite right you quickly re-block, pop the pup out again and make another truss rod tweak.

Alan.

I noticed that even after I remove the neck to make a neck adjustment, after I make the adjustment, I put everything back together, I tighten the strings to pitch and then check the neck again.

To my surprise, the neck doesnt even look like I adjusted it.

So, can somebody clarify this for me: AFAIK neck relief is only really needed if you are a more heavy-handed chord basher because relief prevents buzz in the middle of the neck caused by the eliptical pattern of string vibration.

Charvel Usa Truss Rod Free When Fretting

If you play with higher gain amp settings and hence dont need such an aggressive twangy approach to your play compared to, say, a blues or country player then an absolutely straight neck will allow you to get the action lower and be buzz free when fretting individual notes, particularly in the fret 15-22 area In other words, is relief desirable to prevent open string buzz for heavy pickers and a straight neck desirable to prevent fretting buzz (assuming that the frets are well levelled too) for light pickers Alan.

Also, can you clarify whether the nut tightens against wood or whether it tightens against some kind of metal plate which then distributes the force against a broader area of wood.

When you tune back up, you should be right in the neighborhood of in-tune because you blocked the Floyd from pulling all the way back.

You also need a higher action with a straight neck, which I like.

It makes the guitar feel like its working against you Tonight I will remove the neck, and take the truss rod nut off, to see whats behind there, and maybe put a few metal washers in to see if that gives me more adjustment room.

Man, I remember now why I dread heel-side truss rod adjustments.PITA I know 99 time they hardly need adjusting.but still.

And that Yamaha described above.WTF.